Next, I completed the fiberglass work on the inner transom wall. Again, I wasn't overly concerned about appearance because once the inside of the boat is rebuilt and the gas tank is reinstalled, this section will not even be visible. Once in place and cured, the wall was very strong and the bond with the existing fiberglass was solid.

It was now time to prepare for the pour of the Seacast. In order to keep the job as clean as possible, I whipped up a quick trough style funnel to pour the Seacast into.

And set it into the top of the transom. I lined the funnel with wax paper so the Seacast would not stick to it and also to make cleanup easier. The wax paper actually was long enough to go inside the transom so no Seacast could ooze out the seams.

It was time to begin getting ready for the pour. The nice people at Seacast helped me estimate how much Seacast I would need. They determined that one 1 gallon bucket and one 5 gallon bucket would be sufficient. I started with the one gallon bucket first. My reason for this was that I would use the smaller quantity to seal up the bottom of the transom just in case there was any holes or gaps on the inner transom wall. The scariest part of building your own inner transom wall is that you hope it holds and there aren't any gaps where the Seacast could ooze out. You can see the mixing attachment on my drill that would be used to stir the Seacast.

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