I was too concerned with getting the Seacast poured into the transom, so I don't have any pictures of the actual pour, but here are a couple after shots.
One thing not visible in these pics is that there is a piece of fiberglass tape tucked in across the top to add additional structural support. I then added a little more Seacast to have a level surface to sand down without sanding into the tape.
Here is an image of how I plan on capping the top of the transom once its fully cured. The aluminum was purchased from Home Depot. I am using 2 pieces of 1 1/2 inch angle to make a nice clean looking cap. Fiberglass finish work and painting are far from my specialty.
The Seacast hardened within a couple hours, however, full cure time is 3 to 5 days. Right now the transom seams very hard and very solid. I am extremely happy with my decision to go with Seacast.
On a side note, the people at Seacast, specifically Bobbi and Faye, were unbelievable with their level of service. I would highly recommend not only their product, but dealing with such wonderful people. I have never done anything like this before but with their help, the right tools and some time, the job went very well. Thanks again!
The next step was reglassing the wood sections that were removed back into the sump area. I coated the plywood with 4 heavy coats of resin and reglassed them back into place. I could paint the sump area with Bilge Kote to match the rest of the area, but for now I am not going to worry about it.
My next step was installing the gas tank. I connected to vent hose, fill line and gas line to the tank. I also installed the necessary ground wire.
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